(Mis)adventure seemed to follow us around India and Africa like a bad smell, it doesn't look like Indonesia will be any different. I don't think we would have it any other way.
He slowly raises the cigarette to his mouth and draws on it seductively, looking me dead in the eye. The coquettish look makes me feel a bit awkward but not as awkward as the fact that he is about 12 years old and smoking. But it seems that he is not alone, everyone here from about the age of ten up seems to smoke. What they are not all doing however is speaking English. We have been spoilt for english speakers in every city and many of the rural areas we have visited over the last year that I had almost forgotten that the entire world doesn't speak my native tongue. No one is short on smiles and waves though and we have returned to the celebrity status that we experienced in India with every other person requesting a photo with the two sweaty tourists.
With no menus and no one speaking english we have had some interesting meal times. So far everything has been delicious but we have no idea what we have been eating should we want to order it again. I suspect this is probably for the best though so am keeping my fingers crossed that the tummy holds up.
On touch down in Padang, Sumatra we decided to investigate the local airline that was rumoured to fly to Tello, our ultimate destination, which is so far off the tourist track that it doesn't even feature on google maps. We made our way to the Suisse Air desk where a large sign greeted us with the promise that they were 'OPEN'. After waiting for an hour or two we concluded that the staff were either ghosts or that their definition of open differed to ours. We asked at neighbouring desks, all of which were open and maned by bonafide humans, if the Suisse Air desk was usually maned and the best response we could get was that 'someone was there earlier'. Never mind we thought, we will just call the number provided.
Approximately 25 phone calls to ten different numbers later, some conducted completely in Indonesian while I talked slowly and LOUDLY at them - because that makes foreign language speakers suddenly grasp the English language right!? - we managed to communicate our problem to the receptionist in our hotel who called the airline for us. After a few more phone calls she produced us with an address where we were to go to pay for the flight. We called a taxi and headed for Block D.4 number, 5. Forty minutes later as we dodged pot holes in a residential estate and finally found ourselves in front of Block D.4, number five it became clear that somewhere down the line the message had been lost. Greeting us curiously were three generations of woman from an Indonesian family who despite being very excited to have white people at their house had absolutely no idea what we were doing in their home. I phoned the airline and got lucky with an English speaker this time who told me that I needed to go to the airport, that is where the office is. Wetting ourselves with laughter we waved goodbye to our new friends in their little shack and the saga continued.
As it turns out the airline prioritise local passengers, a refreshing change compared to many countries we have visited over the past year, so even if we paid for three seats: one for Hamish, one for Cindy (my 6ft 7 surfboard), and one for myself then we couldn't all be guaranteed on the flight. With our tails between our legs we headed to the bus station where we came into possession of four seats on a 16 hour minibus that will take us all to a boat which 12 hours later will have us in Tello. The lesson: If coming to Indonesia with surf boards, go on an organised tour..
We have decided to wait a few days until we take the bus, to give us time to really let the excitement of the journey build, so tomorrow we are off to a local beach, Air Manis, where the only accommodation in town is provided by a man who according to internet research likes to get a bit touchy with the ladies. Should be a hoot. From there it will be off to Tello for six weeks where I don't imagine internet will be a big feature so if you could all keep your fingers crossed that I take to surfing like the babes in Blue Crush then I will give you an update in due course !
He slowly raises the cigarette to his mouth and draws on it seductively, looking me dead in the eye. The coquettish look makes me feel a bit awkward but not as awkward as the fact that he is about 12 years old and smoking. But it seems that he is not alone, everyone here from about the age of ten up seems to smoke. What they are not all doing however is speaking English. We have been spoilt for english speakers in every city and many of the rural areas we have visited over the last year that I had almost forgotten that the entire world doesn't speak my native tongue. No one is short on smiles and waves though and we have returned to the celebrity status that we experienced in India with every other person requesting a photo with the two sweaty tourists.
With no menus and no one speaking english we have had some interesting meal times. So far everything has been delicious but we have no idea what we have been eating should we want to order it again. I suspect this is probably for the best though so am keeping my fingers crossed that the tummy holds up.
On touch down in Padang, Sumatra we decided to investigate the local airline that was rumoured to fly to Tello, our ultimate destination, which is so far off the tourist track that it doesn't even feature on google maps. We made our way to the Suisse Air desk where a large sign greeted us with the promise that they were 'OPEN'. After waiting for an hour or two we concluded that the staff were either ghosts or that their definition of open differed to ours. We asked at neighbouring desks, all of which were open and maned by bonafide humans, if the Suisse Air desk was usually maned and the best response we could get was that 'someone was there earlier'. Never mind we thought, we will just call the number provided.
Approximately 25 phone calls to ten different numbers later, some conducted completely in Indonesian while I talked slowly and LOUDLY at them - because that makes foreign language speakers suddenly grasp the English language right!? - we managed to communicate our problem to the receptionist in our hotel who called the airline for us. After a few more phone calls she produced us with an address where we were to go to pay for the flight. We called a taxi and headed for Block D.4 number, 5. Forty minutes later as we dodged pot holes in a residential estate and finally found ourselves in front of Block D.4, number five it became clear that somewhere down the line the message had been lost. Greeting us curiously were three generations of woman from an Indonesian family who despite being very excited to have white people at their house had absolutely no idea what we were doing in their home. I phoned the airline and got lucky with an English speaker this time who told me that I needed to go to the airport, that is where the office is. Wetting ourselves with laughter we waved goodbye to our new friends in their little shack and the saga continued.
As it turns out the airline prioritise local passengers, a refreshing change compared to many countries we have visited over the past year, so even if we paid for three seats: one for Hamish, one for Cindy (my 6ft 7 surfboard), and one for myself then we couldn't all be guaranteed on the flight. With our tails between our legs we headed to the bus station where we came into possession of four seats on a 16 hour minibus that will take us all to a boat which 12 hours later will have us in Tello. The lesson: If coming to Indonesia with surf boards, go on an organised tour..
We have decided to wait a few days until we take the bus, to give us time to really let the excitement of the journey build, so tomorrow we are off to a local beach, Air Manis, where the only accommodation in town is provided by a man who according to internet research likes to get a bit touchy with the ladies. Should be a hoot. From there it will be off to Tello for six weeks where I don't imagine internet will be a big feature so if you could all keep your fingers crossed that I take to surfing like the babes in Blue Crush then I will give you an update in due course !
